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Aquastar Deepstar II on stainless steel BOR bracelet

Collection · 1962

Aquastar Deepstar.

The watch that started it all. The chronograph Frédéric Robert built for the Marine Nationale, same case, same bezel, every Swiss movement we’ve made since.

The Deepstar story

The world’s first multiple-dive no-decompression chronograph.

In 1962 the Deepstar shipped with a Valjoux 23 column-wheel chronograph and the no-decompression bezel marked with the actual decompression tables of the Marine Nationale. Sixty years later, every Deepstar is built from the same archive drawings, just with a hand-wound La Joux-Perret movement in place of the Valjoux 23.

Further reading: best Swiss dive chronographs under $3,000.

Frequently asked

Deepstar questions, answered.

What is the Aquastar Deepstar?

The Aquastar Deepstar is a Swiss dive chronograph first released in 1962 and the watch that introduced the no-decompression bezel, patented by Marc Jasinski in 1964 as Swiss patent CH 436 140. The bezel carries a logarithmic scale calibrated to the nitrogen-saturation tables of the day, so a diver reads maximum safe bottom time at a given depth directly from the bezel rather than a table. The geometry of that 1964 patent is still in production on the modern Deepstar family (Deepstar II three-hand, Deepstar 39 mm Chronograph, Deepstar III Manual Wind).

What movement does the Aquastar Deepstar use?

The 2020 Deepstar 39 mm Chronograph runs a La Joux-Perret LJP mono-compax column-wheel movement, adjusted in five positions with certificate. The 2026 Deepstar III runs the manual-wind variant of the same architecture, hand-wound and built specifically for Aquastar, the closest mechanical equivalent to the original 1962 Valjoux 23. The three-hand Deepstar II uses a Sellita SW290 in Elabore grade.

What is the no-decompression bezel?

The no-decompression bezel is a calibrated dive-watch bezel that shows the maximum time a diver can stay at a given depth without requiring a decompression stop on ascent, read directly from the bezel scale rather than from a printed table. Filed 15 May 1964 by Marc Jasinski for Aquastar S.A. of Geneva (CH 436 140), the Deepstar bezel is the world's first multiple-dive no-decompression chronograph mechanism. It made the watch a dive-planning tool in the tool-watch tradition. It carries two scales, an inner 60-minute elapsed-time scale and an outer no-decompression scale calibrated to the French Navy tables of the period, and lets a diver plan a first dive, time the surface interval, and execute a repetitive second dive directly off the wrist, without a slide rule and without a separate table.

How does a column-wheel chronograph differ from a cam?

A cam is a flat lobed plate that performs start-stop-reset with a single component. A column wheel distributes the same three jobs across a set of levers that drop into indexed gaps on a rotating wheel. The pusher feel of a column wheel is crisper because the coupling clutch engages cleanly without the fractional-second jump characteristic of cam-actuated chronographs. Every modern Aquastar chronograph uses a column-wheel movement.

What sizes does the Aquastar Deepstar come in?

The current family spans 37 mm to 39 mm. The Deepstar II three-hand carries a 37 mm case with a Sellita SW290, sized as a modern reissue of the 1962 original. The Deepstar 39 mm Chronograph and Deepstar III Manual Wind carry a 39 mm case with the LJP column-wheel movement. All are 200 m water-resistant and all sit inside the 37 to 40 mm everyday-wear band.

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